We have been slowly venturing like ants along the eastward-pointing finger of Namibia, spending time in Tsumeb, Grootfontein, Rundu, Divundu, and lastly in the town of Katima, in the region’s “fingernail”. A dirty fingernail that city was too, dusty or muddy streets and poor infrastructure. But a lot of friendly people. And some not-so-friendly animals.
This was going to be a one-off but, once again, the sheer number of pictures I pored over – and the associated memories – will make this a two or three-parter.
Tsumeb is the first of two towns where we spent less time than anticipated, the other being Rundu. We could not find a place that was both suitable to our budget and near to nature. Also in Tsumeb, on our first morning nature walk, we were warned by a passing local not to continue in our direction, saying that she was robbed at knifepoint. After that we thought twice about going venturing to far from town.
AboveLeft: Jeremia Evangelical Lutheran Church with separate services in German and English. Center: Flamboyant Tree, Delonix regia. Right: Abandoned shaft tower. Gold, silver, lead, and other minerals were once mined here in great quantities. The discovery to a rich mineral-producing geological pipe gave rise to the founding of the city by Germans over a hundred years ago. Market child has a potato for a toy.Left: Photo taken from a Grootfontein gas station where we waited almost two hours to get enough riders to go on to Rundu. It took two taxis to come up to Rundu. The driver in Tsumeb gave me the impression that he would take us all the way. But instead he did a “Guatemala Handoff”. Right: After a while I noticed there were at least some interesting birds to be seen. Above were several rare White-backed Vultures gyring far overhead, too distant for clear shots. Luckily there were birds much closer to the station like this gorgeous Long-tailed Paradise Whydah, Vidua paradisaeaAbove: Hobnobbing with friends while at work. I would think the girls would not be so relaxed with the loads balanced on their heads. Below: These beasts of burden often had their own contrary agenda. It took four or five of the boys to ease them backwards into the holding area. (“Ease” maybe the wrong word!)All four photos above were taken from our shared taxi van, waiting almost an hour for enough passengers wanting to go eastward. (We call this “achieving valence”). We made the mistake of paying the driver at first. We have since learned to try to pay on arrival. As it is, the driver made himself hard to find, in effect making us captive passengers.Unlike in Tsumeb we did have a good nature walk in Rundu, and having a conversation of sorts with the border guards at this water crossing, just a hop, skip, and splash from Angola (the far shore seen here). After talking with them we walked a ways along the river’s edge, seeing Hornbills, Weavers, and a good variety of shorebirds.
After we were leaving a man, supposedly an official, yelled at us to come back. It seems we were not allowed to go where we went without permission (although the border guards knew where we were going and said nothing). We ignored this man, pretty sure that he was trying to soak money from some foreigners.
And this is the main reason we did not stay long here. The main nature area was ruined for us.Left: Meyer’s Parrot, Poicephalus meyeri. Center: Millipedes don’t get any larger than the Giant African Millipede, Archispirostreptus gigas. They are sometimes well over a foot long. Right:Southern Red Bishop, Euplectes orix.
Final three photos: There were few places along the stretch between Rundu and Divundu that did not have people in view.
From NOwhere 2 nowHERE 